Monday, 26 August 2013

An unexpected journey.. Free food and Hua Hin


Friday 2pm marked the end of the last lesson and the end of possibly the most challenging and draining week since my arrival in Thailand. This was mainly due to being thrown into the deep end of solo teaching in my new school; no curriculum, no resources, no plan, no instruction.. Whilst I know some other ETAs face the same thing, I still find the pressure daunting having had no experience before. Teaching 3-12 year olds is difficult, despite how many times the director (head teacher) of the school insists its "easy, easy for you!" With the youngest, the concept of 'teaching' English was out of the picture the moment I stepped through the door. I had prepared a lesson plan based on colours and secretly enjoyed spending my evening creating pictures for the class to colour in, or in this case colour around and use a completely different colour then intended. There is a teacher in most of my classes, hovering at the back with eagle eyes. Generally they don't speak any English but are there to keep the class under control or shush them if they get a bit too loud. I'm grateful for their somewhat inconsistent but occasional intervention, however with kindergarten (3-5) they just seemed a bit harsh! If I see a young child smile, laugh or talk from an activity I've made up or something stupid I have done (the latter happens 90% of the time) then this pleases me immensely and makes all of the tension and worry melt away.. Until the Thai teacher shouts at the little ones, shocking them into (very temporary) silence and the pressure to teach quickly returns. Needless to say, this week has been a tough one and I can't believe I've got through it! The weekend was welcomed with open arms.. Little did I know that the weeks challenges weren't quite over yet...

The evening of the 23rd was our arranged UWE meal for both current students and alumni living in Thailand. I paired up with another ETA, Alex, to share a room in a hotel nearby afterwards before heading to Hua Hin on Saturday morning - a fairly small beach resort 2-3 hours South of Bangkok. I booked us the hotel based on the 58% off deal that made it sound like it was luxurious as if we struck a great deal. I read tripadvisor reviews after booking - a rookie error. Many said it was difficult to find and not worth the trip but I stuck by my positive thinking (ish) feeling confident with my google maps screenshot on my phone. This was the first hurdle of the weekend and in hindsight, the journey to the hotel was laughable. After a 35 minute taxi to my nearest skytrain I hopped off a few stops later feeling pleased with myself at the ease of navigating the skytrain. However, by this point it was hammering with rain and flip flops proved impractical footwear.. Google maps couldn't have been more wrong and I ended up stranded by the side of a motorway at peak traffic hour in pouring rain for over an hour trying to find out how the hell to get to the hotel. I asked numerous taxi drivers who more often than not would wave their hand in dismissal or deny me because of the traffic. I managed to gain a helper of a Thai man who kept hailing taxis for me, but despite his best efforts no one seemed to have heard of it. Alex was still on her way via taxi, and I was naturally freaking out, praying that this free meal would be worth the hassle, wondering if I would ever make it or should abandon ship and go back to school.. Eventually, mid-panic-crying-meltdown, a motorbike taxi saved the day and before I really knew what was happening, he whisked me in and out of Bangkok traffic at top speed, causing a lot of enemies in doing so. My eyes were closed for the duration of the ride and I feel this was a good decision. It felt refreshing and invigorating in the downpour. I was so grateful for him to take me to my hotel that I think I would have paid in gold but settled for a reasonable 100baht (£2). On entering our room of the hotel after an eerie lift, I think Alex summed it up nicely when she said it was like the place you go to commit suicide.. It was pretty dingy and not exactly the 'studio' we had in mind. We didn't care too much as we went straight out to meet everyone at the meal held at a rather fancy hotel a few skytrain stops away. It was good to meet other ETAs from my university and exchange stories. When it came to the dessert buffet I was in my element - hello 3 helpings! 

We got an early night ready for our early start to find the minivan station and meet 6 others who were going that we recruited from the night before. After picking up some snacks on the way, we 
were soon ushered into a minivan by a very enthusiastic thai. Soon we stopped to pick up a few more 
passengers which made the van "cosy" to say the least. I managed to nab the middle seat  in the back, meaning I could stretch my legs out across the scatters rucksacks lining the middle. We were about half way to Hua Hin, mid-conversation, when suddenly hurdle number 2 arrived when we crashed into a motorbike in front of us. It was one of the worst experiences of my life; my first car crash. Everyone saw the glass window smash in front of us and 2 people roll off the bike - one under the wheel. Most of us went into a state of shock whilst the two boys jumped out to see what they could do to help - very admirable. Personally I felt frozen and helpless and couldn't believe what had just happened. A Thai woman next to me had gone into a hysterical fit, crying and crying. We were right in the middle of a huge motorway and when the rest of us slowly ventured out of the van we saw two bodies lying still with blood.. By some absolute wander, they were both alive and we all could breathe again. One had a helmet but the passenger didn't - he went under the wheel and looked in pretty bad condition. It was a horrible thing to happen - i cant imagine how the passenger felt seeing her friend/husband/brother in that state.  We are all counting our lucky stars that it wasn't any worse- the impact was intense and most of us saw the flash of bodies flying past. If we were in a car I think things would have turned out a lot different. Having experienced my first motorbike taxi only the day before in full knowledge that I was not wearing a helmet, I am taking this as a sign and will be avoiding any associations to motorbikes from now on. In Thailand, the rules are too relaxed; there should be forces in place to ensure every driver or passenger absolutely wears a helmet. My previous journey was only a matter of minutes, but had it been any longer I would not have felt safe. One thing that I am still in awe of is the significance of where we crashed. It had a police station on one side and a giant statue of a Buddha surrounded by a beautiful garden on the other side of the busy motorway. We could have crashed on a dirt track in the middle of nowhere, but we were truly so lucky; thank Buddha, as my wise parents said.

We had to wait at the side of the motorway for another van to pick us up - we were all hoping it would be a different driver and once more luck was on our side. The journey to Hua Hin took an hour and a half from there (in Thailand this is practically a few minutes) but was probably the most tense 
journey I have ever been on - including the previous motorbike taxi. Every bump, brake and slight alteration to speed made my heart skip a beat - no doubt everyone else felt the same way. We were all so relieved when we arrived at the resort and took another few minutes drive to find our guesthouse where a few of us had booked for the night. It was the sweetest place in a quiet part of Hua Hin filled with tiny carved wooden intricacies and fish and even tortoises outside our rooms. Almost spot on our arrival however, the heavens opened and it hammered down. It didn't last long so we ventured out to find some food and explore. It was eerily quiet but we chose a place by the beach to order food whilst others decided to go further along. With happy bellies, we made our way to the beach and walked around the corner to find a huge stretch of sand with palm trees and several sky rise buildings in the distance, it looked very picturesque and was my very first glimpse of the sea! Despite the dark clouds glooming over us, we managed to meet up with other ETAs who had arrived the night before and arranged to meet later on for a meal and to have drinks. This ended up being a plate of deep fried potato wedges and many Muai Thai cocktails. A good combination in my eyes.

After wandering around we went to a few different places before settling on a bar right next to where we first ate. They had a chilled area with cushions that the girls gravitated towards instantaneously. Numerous cocktails later and a few of us, myself included, had gained a Thai friend. I'm fairly sure she was going through a mid life crisis after she continued to introduce us to her 19 year old daughter sitting opposite, looking fairly and understand embarrassed at her mothers behaviour. She had us all 
dancing and bought us cocktails, before then introducing her girlfriend. It was a very funny evening! By around 3am we left and most wanted to go McDonalds. This still phases me but I went with it. By this point all I wanted was to go to bed. It had been a pretty draining day in more ways than one and I liked the idea of going back to our cosy guesthouse. We didn't actually arrive until about 4am but set an optimistic alarm for 9am to make the most of our day since we had to leave to go back to Bangkok by 6pm. We ended up awakening before the alarm feeling fairly fresh and were soon off to buy breakfast around the corner - bagels with cream cheese and a green tea! Amazing. As soon as the last bite was taken we scooted off to the beach; the sun was shining, our tummies happy once more and
our headaches denied. The sea was gorgeous and warm and it felt so amazing to swim in the big ocean at last. It wasn't quite the picturesque mountainous post card image of Thailand - but we all knew this and all I cared about was sun, sea and sand. I felt very happy and it was a really good day. By late afternoon we said our goodbyes to a few others who had managed to nab days off school so decided to stay another night, and walked away feeling envious. We ate at a really nice shack right on the beach with cheap, near-street food prices and all enjoyed our meal before setting off for the minivan back. 

This time I am extremely happy to report that the van journey was exactly A to B. 4 happy sleeping ETAs arrived safely back in the big city, ready for the week ahead and wherever Thailand will take us next.

Monday, 12 August 2013

The start of something new..

Friday 9th August - the start of a new adventure.

After requesting to move placements after multiple issues at the school, by Friday I was packed up and ready to start the remaining weeks in a new place with new experiences. Due to the long weekend since it was the queens birthday/mothers day on the Monday,I had to do a 12 hour journey to Khon Kaen - North East of Thailand, to meet with the thai ministry of education to discuss my next move. They were all there because of a huge spelling competition and wanted me to help out. Direct flights were all booked up, so I began the journey with a 6 hour coach trip down to Bangkok. I sat at the window seat with a women's dirty feet slid up the gap between the bus and my chair so that was interesting! The aircon seemed to have been out of order so it was a pretty stuffy coach, but I enjoyed the transition from countryside views to city skyline. When I arrive in the main bus station - Mo Chit - I was hit with a wave of panic. From the tiny place I had been staying in for the last 3 weeks where no one spoke english, to arrive to aggressive business drivers yelling at me for taxi, grabbing my suitcase and harassing me over where I am going.. I felt a little overwhelmed! After having to call a member of the British council to help me find the genuine taxi station, I managed to hop on a taxi in the most efficient 3 lane taxi procedure I've ever seen.. It was all go go go quick quick quick now now now! 
The next part of my journey was the hour flight from Donmuang airport (a smaller airport in Bangkok for domestic flights) to Udon Thani airport. Here, I met Brian from the British council who was really nice and supportive of my situation. We managed to have a really good chat about everything, since our flight was delayed because the royal family happened to be flying in so they had to close off the airport! Quite an unusual situation! We flew with Nok Air and although the flight was short they gave us a snack and drink that pleased me immensely. Once we arrived, we hired a car and had to drive for about 120km to Khon Kaen in the dark. During the drive I felt very chatty and got to know Brian a little bit through his tales of his life before Thailand - including living in Vietnam and having to endure bizarre foods and flavoured rice wine.... Flavours being gecko, lizard, squirrel and BEAR. !!!!!
Unfortunately as we were approaching the big city of Khon Kaen, we witnessed a motorbike accident in the lane next to us only a few feet away. After a day of travelling on little sleep, this seemed to top off my emotions and I felt physically sick and paralysed at the incident, especially as we just kept on driving..
We got to the convention centre hotel at about 9pm - in the lobby there was a money tree I've seen frequently, as offerings to Buddha, but right next to it was what I can only describe as a stationary tree.. There were scissors, mugs, highlighter pens all hanging from this tree as offerings! Who knew Buddha fancied doing a bit of arts and crafts. After checking into my room which had an amazing view of the city, I met up with Brian and 2 other members of the British council called Oil and David. They were all friendly and funny and we took a mini bus to this gastro pub at the top of this strange empty building. It had been pouring with rain so it was completely empty but we had great food. Oil has an incredible assertive nature and managed to chop and change the menu into veggie friendly meals, I like her style. We didn't get back to the hotel until just before midnight - at this point I could have fallen asleep standing up so was very happy to see bedtime.
The next morning was crazy. Turns out that the competition was a huge deal - so many important suited and booted people arrived along with 600 students between 10-18 years old. There was an opening ceremony of beautiful Thai dancers, speeches and an ASEAN flag movement. It felt amazing to be a part of it all.. I was briefed on what my role was for the day, so spent the morning as an invigilator with 5 other peace core volunteers from the US in a huge convention room, making sure everyone knew what they were doing and weren't cheating! We then went to a back room to mark all of the papers - it was so funny being on the other side of education and I quite liked the power and red marking pens..!!
After lunch, I met with the thai ministry of education who, after discussion, decided she would be willing to move me to a new school even though we are halfway through the project. She had a few ideas where but had to wait for the long weekend to find out. By 3pm Brian and I had to whisk away for the flight back down to Bangkok, but I managed to squeeze in a delicious takeaway ice cream sundae that I happily ate in the car like a little kid. The flight seemed quick and Brian very kindly escorted me in the taxi to the accommodation the British Council were putting me in for the weekend before I'm moved. I asked Brian in the taxi what the accommodation is like. He said he hasn't been but that he has heard it was "fine".... Turns out it is an executive suite complete with double bed, futon, 2 flat screen TVs and kitchenette/lounge....!?? After so much worrying and travelling this was the most perfect thing to arrive to on Saturday evening. A few hours later, another ETA,Charlie, (mentioned in previous birthday post) came to hang out and stay since she needed to be in Bangkok for Tuesday anyway. We were both overjoyed with the room.. I actually opened the door to her in my complimentary robe and slippers. Charlie the suggested we wander around the corner to grab some Indian food as she had been craving it.. I happily agreed and we stumbled into a vegetarian Indian restaurant only 5 minutes down road. It was so good and we made a point not to order rice, replacing it with stuffed naan, lentil pappadums and chippatis to accompany a lentil Dahl and spicey okra dish. Aroy!
We got back to the apartment by 11.30pm and stayed up chatting and watching hilarious thai TV until the early hours of the morning. A great end to a great day.